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Leaving Chang'an and Crossing the Desert

Foguo Ji (A Record of Buddhist Kingdoms) 佛國記 · Faxian · c. 416 (Eastern Jin, Yixi era) · 10 passages · 487 Chinese characters · reading time 1.9 min

Foguo Ji (A Record of Buddhist Kingdoms) Complete in one volume The record of fifteen years in which Faxian, a monk of sixty-five, left Chang'an to seek the rules of discipline, crossed the desert and the Congling mountains as far as India, and came home by sea by way of Sri Lanka. Thirty countries in all. In an age when Korea, China and Japan were writing of one another, this is the earliest travel account left by a man of East Asia who saw India with his own eyes.

1Setting out to seek the Vinaya

法顯昔在長安,慨律藏殘缺,於是遂以弘始二年歲在己亥,與慧景、道整、慧應、慧嵬等同契,至天竺尋求戒律。

Faxian, in the old days when he was at Chang'an, grieved that the Vinaya canon was broken and incomplete. So in the second year of Hongshi, the year jihai, he joined in one purpose with Huijing, Daozheng, Huiying, and Huiwei, and they resolved to go to India and seek out the rules of discipline.

2Over Long to the country of Qiangui

初發跡長安,度隴,至乾歸國夏坐。

He first set out from Chang'an, crossed Long, and reached the country of Qiangui, where he passed the summer retreat.

3The country of Noutan

夏坐訖,前行至耨檀國。

When the retreat was over he went forward and reached the country of Noutan.

4Meeting companions at Zhangye

度養樓山,至張掖鎮。張掖大亂,道路不通。張掖王殷勤遂留爲作檀越。於是與智嚴、慧簡、僧紹、寶雲、僧景等相遇,欣於同志,便共夏坐。

He crossed Mount Yanglou and reached the garrison of Zhangye. Zhangye was in great disorder and the roads were not open, but the king of Zhangye pressed him earnestly to stay and became his patron. There he met Zhiyan, Huijian, Sengshao, Baoyun, and Sengjing, and rejoicing that they were of one mind, they kept the summer retreat together.

5Dunhuang, before crossing the river of sand

夏坐訖,復進到燉煌。有塞,東西可八十里,南北四十里。共停一月餘日。法顯等五人隨使先發,復與寶雲等別。燉煌太守李暠供給度沙河。

When the retreat was over they went on again and came to Dunhuang. There is a frontier fort there, about eighty li from east to west and forty li from north to south. They stayed together rather more than a month. Faxian and four others went ahead in the train of an envoy, and so parted from Baoyun and the rest again. Li Gao, the governor of Dunhuang, supplied them so that they could cross the river of sand.

6The river of sand, where the bones of the dead are the road signs

沙河中多有惡鬼、熱風,遇則皆死,無一全者。上無飛鳥,下無走獸。遍望極目,欲求度處,則莫知所擬,唯以死人枯骨爲標識耳。

In the river of sand there are many evil spirits and hot winds, and those who meet them all die, and not one comes through whole. Above there are no birds flying, below there are no beasts running. Look as far as the eye can reach on every side, and if you seek the place to cross there is nothing by which to judge. Only the dried bones of the dead serve as road signs.

7The country of Shanshan

行十七日,計可千五百里,得至鄯鄯國。其地崎嶇薄瘠。俗人衣服粗與漢地同,但以氈褐爲異。其國王奉法。可有四千餘僧,悉小乘學。諸國俗人及沙門盡行天竺法,但有精麁。從此西行,所經諸國類皆如是。唯國國胡語不同,然出家人皆習天竺書、天竺語。住此一月日。

After seventeen days, over a road they reckoned at some fifteen hundred li, they reached the country of Shanshan. Its land is rugged and barren. The dress of the common people is roughly the same as in the land of Han, except that they wear felt and coarse hair cloth. The king of that country upholds the Law. There may be more than four thousand monks, and all of them study the Lesser Vehicle. The lay people and the shramanas of all these countries follow the law of India, differing only in whether they keep it finely or coarsely. Going west from here, the countries they passed through were all much like this. Only the Hu speech (胡語) differs from country to country, yet those who have left the household life all learn the writing of India and the speech of India. They stayed here one month.

8The country of Yanyi

復西北行十五日,到焉夷國。焉夷國僧亦有四千餘人,皆小乘學,法則齊整。秦土沙門至彼都,不預其僧例。法顯得苻行當公孫經理,住二月餘日。於是還與寶雲等共。

Going northwest again for fifteen days, they came to the country of Yanyi. In Yanyi too there are more than four thousand monks, all of them students of the Lesser Vehicle, and their rule is strict and orderly. When shramanas from the land of Qin reached that place, they were not admitted to the usage of its order of monks. Faxian gained the care of Fu Gongsun (苻公孫) and stayed rather more than two months, and there he joined Baoyun and the rest again.

9Three of them turn back to Gaochang

爲焉夷國人不修禮儀,遇客甚薄,智嚴、慧簡、慧嵬遂返向高昌,欲求行資。

Because the people of Yanyi did not cultivate propriety and treated guests very meanly, Zhiyan, Huijian, and Huiwei at last turned back toward Gaochang, meaning to seek funds for the journey.

10The hardship of the sand road

法顯等蒙苻公孫供給,遂得直進。西南行,路中無居民,沙行艱難,所經之苦,人理莫比。

Faxian and the others were supplied by Fu Gongsun, and so were able to go straight on. They traveled southwest. There were no people living along the road, and the going over the sand was hard and dangerous. The sufferings they passed through had no match in the affairs of men.